Ukraine

Currency: The Hryvnia (UAH)

Official language: Ukrainian

Beautiful buildings went up in Kiev in the 10th and 11th centuries, including St Sophia’s Cathedral (with fabulous frescoes), the Caves Monastery, the Golden Gate of the old town, and St Michael’s Monastery. This was the Golden Age for Ukraine, which saw it become a major religious, as well as cultural center. It declined under the Mongols, and was also taken by the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth for four hundred years, and then finally Russia. The Ottoman Empire controlled the Ukraine coast in the 1500’s.

Visitors will find that all towns sport Soviet-style buildings and vast statues —Lenin mainly—along with Stalin, Pushkin, and noteworthy historical figures such as Taras Shevchenko. Most of the sites are in Kiev, including the grand Mariyinsky Palace of 1750, though non-touristy Lviv also has an old town and its Armenian Cathedral dates back to the mid-1300’s. Kiev’s Podil district—the Lower Town, where Andrew’s Descent is—has an entirely different look, where workers’ homes hail from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The capital city, Kiev, is as multicultural as they come, with significant Polish, Armenian, and Jewish communities. Although Ukrainians are quite friendly and Kiev is certainly easier-going than Moscow, some visitors may find them to be closed off and a little rough around the edges. Likening local folks to Russians is a major faux pas here and not advised when swilling vodka in a bar.

Ukrainians are very proud of their heritage, as evidenced by the flag-waving on Independence Day and Kiev Day. Trade fairs are popular events, and on Sorochinsky Yarmarok visitors can see people don traditional garb for merrymaking. Dress is casual, while higher end dining in the capital often requires formal attire, and women are to wear a hat or scarf when visiting Orthodox churches.

Ukraine is big on the arts and every town has at least one theater (Kiev with many), along with innumerable galleries. Its museums cover all genres, while some of its arts and crafts are known the world over. Ukrainian craftspeople churn out fabulous jewelry and ceramics, along with handcrafted dolls, decorative eggs, and beautiful embroidery.

Summer—June to August—is the hottest time in Ukraine, with daily averages around 70°F. Highs in July can be well into the 90’s (and 100’s), with not much respite at night. This is especially true in the north where Kiev is, with temperatures on the coast less intense.

You do not need a visa to enter Ukraine for tourism purposes for visits of up to 90 days in any 180 day period, but must be able to provide proof of valid health insurance and sufficient funds for the duration of your stay. You must receive the visa in advance at a Ukrainian embassy or consulate.

There are metered taxis and private (‘gypsy’) cabs in Ukraine towns and cities. The metered ones are official and are noted by their black and yellow roof signs, but even they don’t always use the meter, especially in Kiev during busy times. Either type can be flagged down on the street, but you should always agree on a price before setting off. Prices are fair for most visitors, and since the smaller towns have fewer choices for public transportation, a taxi can save a lot of time.

Water taxis arrive in Odessa from various ports in the Black Sea, though travel by ferry is not the norm beyond this region. Within the Ukraine, there are popular cruises along the Dnieper River, running between Kiev and Odessa, as well as cheap boat tours of the river in Kiev itself.

Train travel within Ukraine is preferred over bus, particularly for long distances. Ukrainian Railways are government-run, and although old and slow, typically are reliable and cheap. There are three classes of cabins: two-berth lux, four-berth second class and six-berth third class. All main cities are served by the rail and tickets can be purchased online. The main train station is near Vokzalna metro station in Kiev, but Kharkiv and Dnipropetrovsk also have metros.

Before you leave on your holiday, there are at least four health-related things you should do. Please check the handbook for specifics, but for now, here’s the short list:

Step 1: Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting.

Step 2: Have a medical checkup with your doctor.

Step 3: Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

Step 4: Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less important than steps 1-3.)

DO

• Do greet with a strong handshake along with direct eye contact.
• Do know the more informal greetings. Close female friends will cheek kiss three times, starting with the left cheek. Close male friends pat each other on the back and hug.
• Do understand that feminism is a little behind in Ukraine. Men will usually hold a door open for women, pour their drinks, light their cigarettes, etc.
• Do comply with dress code in churches (women should cover their heads when entering Orthodox churches; no aboveknee skirts for women and no hats for men).
• Do bring a gift such as dessert, wine, flowers or something from your hometown if you are invited into a Ukrainian household. However, avoid yellow flowers (yellow is considered a color of separation) or bouquets of flowers in an even number. Even numbers of flowers are for funerals.
• Do take your shoes off upon entering.
• Do partake in toasts. Toasting is a very important part of Ukraine's social culture.

DON'T

• Don't confuse Ukraine with Russia or Ukrainians with Russians.
• Don't shake hands with gloves on. Remove them first.
• Don't be offended if a person asks how much you earn. Don't complain about having no money to pay your bills, though, - it's considered to be rude.
• Don't wear shorts and a t-shirt at a church, theater, concert, or an upscale restaurant, and remember to take your hat off indoors.
• Don't ever hand anything or shake hands over a threshold. It's considered really bad luck.
• Don't open a gift upon receipt. Open it later.
• Don't give handkerchiefs, mirrors or sharp objects as presents. If you decide to give a purse or a wallet, then remember to put some money in it first.
• Don't congratulate someone or celebrate a birthday before the day arrives, it is tradition to celebrate it on the day or after.
• Don't refuse a dish. Try everything and save room for seconds. Turning down food could be seen as rude.
• Don't suggest that salo is unhealthy.
• Don't refuse to drink vodka at a funeral banquet. It is absolutely unacceptable. Don't whistle while indoors. It is considered quite rude and it is believed that you will lose a large amount of money soon after.
• Don't put your feet on the furniture.
• Don't make a fist with your thumb in between your middle and index finger. It's considered a very vulgar gesture.
• Don't gesture to someone with your index finger. That is only acceptable if beckoning a little kid or a dog.